The more money people invest in an item of clothing, Zollman believes, the more likely they are to fix it when it's damaged rather than toss it. what you're paying yourself, as long as you're paying yourself a fair wage." If I were talking with a businessperson, they'd think I was insane, but there's truly no reason to add profit above. "The price I charge is directly connected to the amount of hours I put in. "I found that's been helpful - for people to contextualize and understand what goes into the pricing," Zollman said. Though the finished product is the same, shoppers select their price from the scale based on the wage that Zollman will receive for making it: $20 per hour on the low end, $30 per hour on the high end. Zollman's made-to-order six-button blouse, sewn from organic cotton, costs between $245 and $285. He loves the moment when he gets the fit just right, he said.Ī custom-made shirt or a jacket made from antique materials doesn't come cheap. Zollman custom makes his more basic items for the wearer, adjusting his patterns to fit their body. They could just be these categories that could be embraced or worn by everyone." Anyone can wear menswear anyone can wear womenswear. It's just you want to free the clothing from strict associations with a particular gender. "It's not that you want to negate the idea that there's gender in clothing. "What I love about project is, he's creating menswear, but it's menswear for everyone," McVay said. Taylor McVay, Zollman's Massachusetts-based sewing teacher and friend, said it's helpful to think of menswear as a set of aesthetic principles for clothing, not as a category that dictates who can wear it. He wants it to be wearable and stylish for people of all genders. "I get compliments every time I go out the door in it," he said. Johnston also bought a simple white Parcel Jacket from Zollman's most recent line. He values Zollman's skill: "His artistic eye is so great." "I know nothing about textile work, but I've always been interested in vintage textiles and vintage in general," Johnston noted. ![]() The marriage of sporty familiarity and unique textiles makes the clothes special, Johnston said by phone. that can be a little tongue-in-cheek and can be beautiful and still feel useful to someone."īrandon Johnston, an actor living in Los Angeles, has bought several items from Zollman, including some of those baseball jerseys. "But it's such a huge part of masculinity that it's just rife with ways to riff. "I didn't set out to do a lot of sports-inspired stuff," Zollman said. He likes taking the sports silhouettes associated with traditional masculinity - "a literal uniform," he said - and adding softness through drape and fabric choices. Zollman's passion for antique textiles was already apparent in the garments that dominated his spring/summer collection: baseball jerseys sewn from bright floral tablecloths. In late November, he'll launch a limited line of letterman jackets made from handwoven coverlets from the late 19th century. But he's trying to grow at a sustainable pace, he said. ![]() Now, he can make that many in just a few months. In Slow Process' first year, Zollman sewed and sold 15 to 20 pieces, he recalled. Now he's in the midst of releasing a fall line, his sixth, that includes workwear-inspired jackets and smock-like shirts. He has since hired a part-time sewing assistant. In May of this year, he expanded the studio space to include a showroom. He moved to Burlington shortly afterward and established a studio in the South End's Soda Plant in 2019, filling it with secondhand and vintage sewing machines and huge bolts of fabric. There, in 2018, he designed and sewed his first clothing line. Zollman took sewing classes in Vermont and in Boston, where he lived for two years. ![]() "I think that there is a broader desire among masculine people to want something beautiful, but they don't really know what that looks like for them." "I channel the classic menswear silhouettes, but I'm trying to impart on them a beauty and a softness that I think has been absent from menswear for a long time," Zollman said. "Through small makers, I think we begin to value the craft in a larger sense." Sam Zollman tweet this
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |